Increasing daylength and warmer days tells us spring is not far off. While certainly too early for any outdoor planting or soil work, we have advanced into the start of prime time for pruning numerous tree species, including apples.

Apple trees should be pruned following the central leader system, which features a central main trunk. Off the trunk are sets of horizontal branches referred to as scaffolds, which bear the load of fruit. This framework is the foundation of the apple tree. However, it is also important to have center portions of apple tree canopies open enough to allow sunlight to penetrate and air flowing easily through foliage. This will reduce fungal diseases and improve fruit quality.

 No two trees are exactly alike in pruning needs, but following general guidelines will achieve the same results; productive trees that are easily cared for. Developing and maintaining a solid framework are key objectives, along with removing unwanted growth. Always cutting back to a bud, shoot, or lateral branch is a fundamental rule of pruning. To assure good clean cuts, choose the proper tool for size of cut from hand pruning shears, loppers, and a small hand saw. Do not treat cuts with wound dressing.

For recently planted younger apple trees not yet bearing fruit, developing strong frameworks is critical. Choose horizontally orientated branches with wide angles from the trunk to become the main scaffolds of the tree. Maintain a space between these scaffolds. Each season as the tree grows this scaffold framework is your focal point of pruning.

When working with established bearing apple trees, approach pruning objectives differently. Start by removing any damaged, diseased, and weak branches. Oftentimes you will encounter branches that cross or compete for the same space. Pick the one that best contributes to the overall tree framework and remove the other. Focus on promoting horizontal branches over vertical ones for better strength and more flowers. If tree height needs to be reduced, cut back to the closest vertically orientated lateral branch, so it becomes the new leader.

Two types of unwanted fast growth to always remove from apples are water sprouts and suckers. Water sprouts are non-fruiting vertical branches that clog up centers of apple trees. Suckers are shoots originating from the base of the trunk, and on grafted trees develop from the rootstock, which is different from the desired apple variety of the grafted tree.

Dormant pruning of apples should be completed before leaves emerge from the trees; so, for most of the state we have all of March, even into early April, to get the job done. Make plans now!